{"id":66351,"date":"2018-02-23T12:22:45","date_gmt":"2018-02-23T04:22:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.htt.hk\/?p=66351"},"modified":"2018-02-23T12:22:45","modified_gmt":"2018-02-23T04:22:45","slug":"%e7%b1%b3%e5%85%b0%e6%97%b6%e8%a3%85%e5%91%a8italiana%e5%a4%a7%e5%b1%95%e6%8f%ad%e5%b9%95","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.htt.hk\/?p=66351","title":{"rendered":"\u7c73\u5170\u65f6\u88c5\u5468\u201cItaliana\u201d\u5927\u5c55\u63ed\u5e55"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u4eca\u5929\uff0c\u5728\u7c73\u5170\u738b\u5bab\uff08Royal Palace\uff09\u5f00\u5e55\u7684\u201cItaliana. Italy Through the Lens of Fashion 1971-2001\u201d\u65f6\u5c1a\u5c55\u89c8\u6807\u5fd7\u7740\u672c\u5c4a\u7c73\u5170\u65f6\u88c5\u5468\u7684\u6b63\u5f0f\u542f\u52a8\u3002\u8be5\u5c55\u89c8\u7740\u91cd\u5c55\u73b0\u610f\u5927\u5229\u5728\u8bbe\u8ba1\u3001\u521b\u610f\u548c\u751f\u4ea7\u7b49\u65b9\u9762\u7684\u5b9e\u529b\uff0c\u65f6\u95f4\u8de8\u5ea6\u4ece\u610f\u5927\u5229\u6210\u8863\u5148\u9a71 Walter Albini \u4e8e1971\u5e74\u5728\u7c73\u5170\u53d1\u5e03\u7684\u7b2c\u4e00\u573a\u65f6\u88c5\u79c0\uff0c\u52302001\u5e74 9-11\u6050\u6016\u88ad\u51fb\u4e8b\u4ef6\u5bf9\u6574\u4e2a\u65f6\u5c1a\u754c\u4ea7\u751f\u7684\u5f71\u54cd\u3002<\/p>\n<p>\u5c55\u89c8\u7b56\u5c55\u4eba\u4e3a\u300aW\u300b\u7684\u4e3b\u7f16 Stefano Tonchi \u4ee5\u53ca\u5a01\u5c3c\u65af\u5efa\u7b51\u5927\u5b66\u65f6\u5c1a\u53f2\u8bc4\u8bba\u5bb6 Maria Luisa Frisa \u6559\u6388\uff0cTonchi \u4ecb\u7ecd\uff0c\u672c\u6b21\u5c55\u89c8\u6d89\u53ca\u7684\u4e8b\u4ef6\u6db5\u76d6\uff08\u610f\u5927\u5229\u65f6\u88c5\uff09\u7cfb\u7edf\u7684\u8f6c\u53d8\uff0c\u5168\u7403\u91d1\u878d\u4e00\u4f53\u5316\u7684\u5b9e\u73b0\u4ee5\u53ca Gucci \u88ab\u51fa\u552e\u7ed9 PPR\uff08\u73b0\u6cd5\u56fd Kering \u96c6\u56e2\uff09\u3002<\/p>\n<p>\u5c55\u89c8\u5f00\u59cb\u4e8e2\u670822\u65e5\uff0c\u5c06\u6301\u7eed\u52305\u67086\u65e5\u3002\u672c\u6b21\u5c55\u89c8\u5171\u8bbe\u6709130\u4e2a\u5c55\u4f4d\uff0c\u4e0d\u540c\u7684\u662f\uff0c\u5c55\u89c8\u5e76\u672a\u6309\u7167\u65f6\u95f4\u987a\u5e8f\u6392\u5217\uff0c\u800c\u662f\u5c06\u8fd9\u4e9b\u5c55\u4f4d\u5206\u5e03\u5728\u4e5d\u4e2a\u4e3b\u9898\u5c55\u5385\uff1aIdentity\uff08\u8ba4\u540c\uff09\uff0cDemocracy\uff08\u6c11\u4e3b\uff09\uff0cLogomania\uff0cDiorama\uff0cProject 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Tonchi\u89e3\u91ca\u8bf4\uff1a\u201c\u610f\u5927\u5229\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u4e5f\u662f\u6700\u65e9\u4e3a\u90a3\u4e9b\u5e0c\u671b\u5c55\u73b0\u81ea\u8eab\u9b45\u529b\u7684\u7537\u6027\u8bbe\u8ba1\u670d\u88c5\u7684\u3002\u201d \u201c\u5728\u610f\u5927\u5229\uff0c\u50cf Versace\uff0cByblos \u548c Armani \u8fd9\u6837\u7684\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u90fd\u5728\u91cf\u4ea7\u65b0\u578b\u7537\u88c5\uff0c\u8bd5\u56fe\u66f4\u597d\u5730\u5c55\u793a\u7537\u58eb\u7684\u8eab\u4f53\u800c\u4e0d\u662f\u5c06\u5176\u9690\u85cf\u3002\u6cd5\u56fd\u548c\u82f1\u56fd\u7684\u65f6\u5c1a\u8bbe\u8ba1\u4e5f\u5728\u63a2\u7d22\u548c\u5b9e\u8df5\u6027\u522b\u8ba4\u540c\uff0c\u4f46\u8fd9\u79cd\u89c2\u5ff5\u5728\u610f\u5927\u5229\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u4e2d\u66f4\u52a0\u666e\u904d\u3002\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u65f6\u5c1a\u6c11\u4e3b\u5316<\/p>\n<p>Tonchi 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Trussardi \u7b49\u54c1\u724c\u7684\u76ae\u5177\u3002\u4e3a\u4e86\u5f3a\u8c03\u4e0e\u610f\u5927\u5229\u6587\u5316\u548c\u8bbe\u8ba1\u7684\u8054\u7cfb\uff0c Maurizio Cattelan\uff0cFrancesco Vezzoli\u548c Vanessa Beecroft \u7b49\u827a\u672f\u5bb6\u7684\u827a\u672f\u4f5c\u54c1\u4ee5\u53ca Aldo Fallai\uff0cPaolo Roversi\uff0cGian Paolo Barbieri \u548c Oliviero Toscani \u7684\u6444\u5f71\u4f5c\u54c1\u4e5f\u51fa\u73b0\u5728\u4e86\u5c55\u89c8\u4e2d\u3002<\/p>\n<p>\u610f\u5927\u5229\u65f6\u5c1a\u5546\u4f1a\u7684\u4e3b\u5e2d Carlo Capasa \u8868\u793a\uff1a\u201c\u6211\u4eec\u5e76\u4e0d\u7ecf\u5e38\u8bb2\u8ff0\u6211\u4eec\u7684\u6545\u4e8b\uff0c\u610f\u5927\u5229\u6210\u8863\u7684\u8bde\u751f\u5e76\u975e\u5076\u7136\uff0c\u800c\u662f\u7ecf\u5386\u4e86\u793e\u4f1a\u548c\u8d44\u4ea7\u9636\u7ea7\u7684\u6f14\u53d8\u3002\u672c\u6b21\u5c55\u89c8\u5c55\u73b0\u4e86\u610f\u5927\u5229\u7684\u521b\u610f\u3001\u5de5\u4e1a\u5316\u4ee5\u53ca\u5b8c\u6574\u7684\u5236\u9020\u6d41\u7a0b\uff0c\u8fd8\u6709\u4ece\u5bb6\u65cf\u4f01\u4e1a\u5230\u5168\u65b0\u56fd\u9645\u4e1a\u52a1\u4f53\u7cfb\u7684\u8f6c\u53d8\uff0c\u540c\u6837\u8fd8\u53cd\u6620\u4e86\u610f\u5927\u5229\u7684\u751f\u6d3b\u65b9\u5f0f\u3002\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cItaliana\u201d\u65f6\u5c1a\u5c55\u7531\u7c73\u5170\u5e02\uff0c\u7c73\u5170\u738b\u5bab\uff08Royal Palace\uff09\u548c\u610f\u5927\u5229\u56fd\u5bb6\u6444\u50cf\u516c\u53f8\uff08Camera Nazionale della Moda 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