{"id":137031,"date":"2021-11-30T08:18:50","date_gmt":"2021-11-30T00:18:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.htt.hk\/?p=137031"},"modified":"2021-11-30T08:18:50","modified_gmt":"2021-11-30T00:18:50","slug":"%e4%bc%a0%e5%a5%87%e8%ae%be%e8%ae%a1%e5%b8%88-martin-margiela-%e5%9c%a8%e5%b7%b4%e9%bb%8e%e4%b8%be%e5%8a%9e%e4%b8%aa%e4%ba%ba%e8%89%ba%e6%9c%af%e5%b1%95","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/?p=137031","title":{"rendered":"\u4f20\u5947\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08 Martin Margiela \u5728\u5df4\u9ece\u4e3e\u529e\u4e2a\u4eba\u827a\u672f\u5c55"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u6bd4\u5229\u65f6\u4f20\u5947\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u3001\u5962\u4f88\u54c1\u724c Maison Margiela \u7684\u521b\u59cb\u4eba Martin Margiela \u662f\u65f6\u88c5\u754c\u6700\u53cd\u4f20\u7edf\u7684\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u4e4b\u4e00\uff0c\u6700\u8fd1\u4ed6\u5728\u5df4\u9eceLafayette Anticipations \u4e3e\u529e\u4e86\u9996\u4e2a\u4e2a\u4eba\u827a\u672f\u4f5c\u54c1\u5c55\u3002Lafayette Anticipations\u662f\u4e00\u4e2a\u521b\u65b0\u548c\u8bd5\u9a8c\u6027\u7684\u827a\u672f\u4e2d\u5fc3\uff0c\u4f4d\u4e8e\u5df4\u9eceMarais\u533a\uff0c\u7531\u8001\u4f5b\u7237\u767e\u8d27\u96c6\u56e2\uff08Galeries Lafayette\uff09\u6253\u9020\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u5728\u8fd9\u4f4d64\u5c81\u7684\u6bd4\u5229\u65f6\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e0820\u591a\u5e74\u7684\u65f6\u5c1a\u751f\u6daf\u4e2d\uff0c\u4ed6\u7684\u89d2\u8272\u65e2\u662f\u4e00\u540d\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\uff0c\u4e5f\u662f\u4e00\u540d\u827a\u672f\u5bb6\u3002Lafayette Anticipations\u7684\u4e3b\u7ba1Rebecca Lamarche-Vadel\u8bf4\uff1a\u201c\u5f53 Martin\u8868\u793a\u8981\u6210\u4e3a\u4e00\u540d\u827a\u672f\u5bb6\u65f6\uff0c\u6211\u8ddf\u4ed6\u8bf4\uff0c\u5f53\u4f60\u8fd8\u5728\u4ece\u4e8b\u65f6\u5c1a\u5de5\u4f5c\u65f6\uff0c\u6211\u5c31\u4e00\u76f4\u628a\u4f60\u5f53\u6210\u827a\u672f\u5bb6\u3002\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u8fd9\u573a\u5c55\u89c8\u4e0d\u662f Martin Margiela\u65f6\u5c1a\u4f5c\u54c1\u7684\u56de\u987e\u5c55\uff0c\u800c\u662f\u5c55\u51fa\u4e86\u4e00\u7cfb\u5217\u5b9e\u9a8c\u6027\u7684\u827a\u672f\u4f5c\u54c1\uff0c\u6d89\u53ca\u540d\u4eba\u5d07\u62dc\uff08the cult of celebrity\uff09\u3001\u4e00\u6b21\u6027\u6d88\u8d39\uff08disposable consumerism\uff09\u3001\u9690\u79c1\uff08vindication of secrecy\uff09\u7b49\u8bdd\u9898\u3002\u6700\u540e\u4e00\u70b9\u5bf9 Martin Margiela\u6765\u8bf4\u81f3\u5173\u91cd\u8981\uff0c\u4ed6\u9c9c\u5c11\u9732\u9762\uff0c\u751a\u81f3\u5f88\u591a\u53c2\u52a0\u8fc7 Maison Margiela\u7cfb\u5217\u53d1\u5e03\u7684\u65f6\u5c1a\u7f16\u8f91\u4e5f\u6ca1\u89c1\u8fc7\u4ed6\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.htt.hk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/3-14-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-137032\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u4e0a\u56fe\uff1aMartin Margiela\uff0c\u8fd9\u662f\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u4e3a\u6570\u4e0d\u591a\u7684\u516c\u5f00\u7167\u7247\u4e4b\u4e00<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u8bb8\u591a\u4f5c\u54c1\u662f\u5728 Lafayette Anticipations\u7684\u5730\u4e0b\u5ba4\u91cc\u521b\u4f5c\u7684\uff0c\u8fd9\u91cc\u6709\u4e00\u4e2a\u5ea7\u975e\u5e38\u5148\u8fdb\u7684\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5de5\u4f5c\u5ba4\u3002\u672c\u6b21\u5c55\u51fa\u7684\u591a\u6570\u827a\u672f\u54c1\u5b9e\u9645\u4e0a\u662f\u5728\u7ea6\u4e24\u5e74\u524d\u5b8c\u6210\u7684\uff0c\u4f46\u7531\u4e8e\u75ab\u60c5\uff0c\u5c55\u51fa\u88ab\u63a8\u8fdf\u81f3\u4eca\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u8001\u4f5b\u7237\u767e\u8d27\u96c6\u56e2\u63a7\u80a1\u5bb6\u65cf\u7684 Guillaume Houz\u00e9\u89e3\u91ca\u8bf4\uff1a\u201cMartin\u80fd\u5728\u8fd9\u91cc\u5de5\u4f5c\uff0c\u5c31\u662f Lafayette Anticipations\u6240\u5e0c\u671b\u7684\u3002\u6211\u4eec\u7684\u613f\u666f\u662f\u6253\u9020\u4e00\u4e2a\u7a7a\u95f4\uff0c\u8ba9\u5f53\u4ee3\u827a\u672f\u5bb6\u88ab\u8d4b\u4e88\u5145\u5206\u5730\u6743\u5229\u53bb\u81ea\u7531\u521b\u4f5c\uff0c\u6309\u7167\u4ed6\u4eec\u81ea\u5df1\u7684\u8282\u594f\uff0c\u521b\u9020\u4ed6\u4eec\u81ea\u5df1\u7684\u4f5c\u54c1\u3002\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Lafayette Anticipations\u6240\u5728\u5730\u6700\u65e9\u662f\u4ed3\u5e93\uff0c\u540e\u6765\u6539\u6210\u4e86\u5b66\u6821\u3002\u5efa\u7b51\u5e08 Rem Koolhaas\u5bf9\u5efa\u7b51\u5185\u90e8\u8fdb\u884c\u4e86\u91cd\u5efa\uff0c\u8bbe\u8ba1\u4e86\u4e24\u5c42\u5de8\u5927\u7684\u7a7a\u4e2d\u697c\u5c42\uff0c\u53ef\u4ee5\u901a\u8fc7\u7535\u52a8\u6ed1\u8f6e\u8c03\u6574\u9ad8\u5ea6\uff0c\u63d0\u4f9b\u66f4\u5927\u7684\u827a\u672f\u5c55\u793a\u7a7a\u95f4\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.htt.hk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/5-14.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-137033\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u300aVanitas\u300b<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u8fd9\u91cc\u5171\u5c55\u793a\u4e86 Martin Margiela\u7684\u4e8c\u5341\u591a\u4ef6\u4f5c\u54c1\uff0c\u5305\u62ec\u827a\u672f\u88c5\u7f6e\u3001\u96d5\u5851\u3001\u62fc\u8d34\u753b\u3001\u7ed8\u753b\u7b49\u5f62\u5f0f\uff0c\u5c55\u793a\u5171\u5360\u4e24\u5c42\u697c\uff0c\u5206\u522b\u9648\u5217\u572820\u4e2a\u9694\u5f00\u7684\u5c0f\u623f\u95f4\u91cc\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Martin Margiela \u7684\u54e5\u54e5\u662f\u4e00\u540d\u7f8e\u53d1\u5e08\uff0c\u8fd9\u6b21\u5c55\u793a\u4e86\u8bb8\u591a\u4e0e\u201c\u5934\u53d1\u201d\u6709\u5173\u7684\u4f5c\u54c1\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u9996\u5148\u662f\u300aHair Portraits\u300b\uff08\u5934\u53d1\u8096\u50cf\uff09\uff0c\u75315\u5806\u6742\u5fd7\u7ec4\u6210\uff0c\u6742\u5fd7\u5c01\u9762\u4e0a\u662f Monica Vitti \u6216 Catherine Deneuve\u7b49\u540d\u4eba\uff0c\u4e0d\u8fc7\u5979\u4eec\u7684\u8138\u90fd\u88ab\u81ea\u5df1\u7684\u5934\u53d1\u5b8c\u5168\u906e\u4f4f\u4e86\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u88c5\u7f6e\u4f5c\u54c1\u300aVanitas\u300b\u662f5\u4e2a\u88ab\u5934\u53d1\u5305\u88f9\u4f4f\u4e86\u7684\u201c\u8111\u888b\u201d\uff0c\u63cf\u7ed8\u4e86\u4e00\u4e2a\u5973\u4eba\u4e00\u751f\u4e2d\u5934\u53d1\u7684\u4e94\u4e2a\u9636\u6bb5\u3002\u8fd9\u4ef6\u4f5c\u54c1\u7531\u7845\u80f6\u548c\u771f\u53d1\u5236\u6210\u3002Rebecca Lamarche-Vadel \u89e3\u91ca\u4e86\u4f5c\u54c1\u7684\u542b\u4e49\uff1a\u201c\u4f60\u5982\u4f55\u63cf\u7ed8\u6b7b\u4ea1\uff0c\u63cf\u7ed8\u751f\u547d\u7684\u7ec8\u7ed3\uff1fMartin\u7684\u7b54\u6848\u662f\uff0c\u4eba\u751f\u5206\u4e3a\u4e94\u4e2a\u9636\u6bb5\uff1a\u9996\u5148\u662f\u9752\u5e74\uff0c\u7136\u540e\u4e3a\u5979\u7684\u7b2c\u4e00\u4e2a\u5b69\u5b50\u505a\u51c6\u5907\uff0c\u5f00\u59cb\u6709\u4e86\u767d\u53d1\uff0c\u67d3\u53d1\uff0c\u6700\u540e\u6ee1\u5934\u767d\u53d1\u3002\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u4f5c\u4e3a\u4e00\u540d\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\uff0cMartin Margiela\u5e38\u5e38\u7528\u610f\u60f3\u4e0d\u5230\u7684\u4e1c\u897f\u5236\u6210\u5e38\u89c1\u7684\u7269\u54c1\uff0c\u6bd4\u5982\u4ed6\u66fe\u7528\u56de\u6536\u6765\u7684\u9ad8\u8ddf\u978b\u4e0a\u7684\u76ae\u9769\u505a\u6210\u7d27\u8eab\u8863\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u8fd9\u6b21\u4ed6\u7528\u6709\u673a\u73bb\u7483\u548c\u4eba\u9020\u6bdb\u76ae\u5efa\u4e86\u4e00\u5ea7\u516c\u4ea4\u5019\u8f66\u7ad9\u3002\u5c55\u89c8\u5165\u53e3\u5904\u662f\u4e00\u5f20\u5de8\u5927\u7684\u9999\u4f53\u68d2\uff08deodorant stick\uff09\u7684\u7167\u7247\uff0c\u4e0a\u9762\u7684\u6587\u5b57\u662f\u8fd9\u6b21\u827a\u672f\u5c55\u7528\u5230\u7684\u539f\u6750\u6599\u6e05\u5355\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Martin Margiela \u75f4\u8ff7\u4e8e\u4eba\u7c7b\u548c\u52a8\u7269\u7684\u8eab\u4f53\u5f62\u6001\uff0c\u4ed6\u6700\u8457\u540d\u7684\u978b\u5b50\u662f\u4e00\u6b3e\u5206\u8dbe\u978b\u3002\u8fd9\u6b21\u4ed6\u7ee7\u7eed\u4ece\u89e3\u5256\u5b66\u7684\u6982\u5ff5\u51fa\u53d1\uff0c\u7528\u7845\u80f6\u6216\u77f3\u818f\u5448\u73b0\u4e86\u5927\u5757\u7684\u4eba\u4f53\u8eaf\u5e72\u3002\u53e6\u4e00\u4e2a\u623f\u95f4\u91cc\u5c55\u793a\u4e86\u51e0\u7247\u5de8\u5927\u7684\u7ea2\u8272\u5047\u6307\u7532\uff0c\u7528 Nymphenburg\u9676\u74f7\u6750\u6599\u5236\u6210\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Martin Margiela \u5728 Lafayette Anticipations\u7684\u5c55\u89c8\u5c06\u6301\u7eed\u52302022\u5e741\u67082\u65e5\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.htt.hk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/6-14.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-137034\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.htt.hk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/7-13.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-137035\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Martin Margiela \u51fa\u751f\u4e8e1957\u5e74\uff0c1974\u5e74\u8fdb\u5165\u6bd4\u5229\u65f6\u5b89\u7279\u536b\u666e\u7687\u5bb6\u827a\u672f\u5b66\u9662\u5b66\u4e60\uff1b1984\u5e74\u8d77\u62c5\u4efb\u6cd5\u56fd\u670d\u88c5\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08 Jean Paul Gaultier \u7684\u52a9\u7406\uff0c\u6b63\u5f0f\u5f00\u59cb\u4e86\u670d\u88c5\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u7684\u804c\u4e1a\u751f\u6daf\uff1b1988\u5e74\uff0cMartin Margiela \u521b\u7acb\u4e86\u81ea\u5df1\u7684\u670d\u88c5\u54c1\u724c Maison Martin Margiela\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">1997\u5e74\uff0cMartin Margiela \u6210\u4e3a\u6cd5\u56fd\u5962\u4f88\u54c1\u724c Herm\u00e8s \uff08\u7231\u9a6c\u4ed5\uff09\u9996\u5e2d\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\uff0c2003\u5e74\u5378\u4efb\u30022002\u5e74\uff0cDiesel \u54c1\u724c\u7684\u521b\u59cb\u4ebaRenzo Rosso \u638c\u63a7\u7684\u610f\u5927\u5229\u5962\u4f88\u54c1\u96c6\u56e2 OTB \u96c6\u56e2\uff08Only The Brave) \u901a\u8fc7\u65d7\u4e0b\u5b50\u516c\u53f8 Neuf \u6536\u8d2d\u4e86Maison Martin Margiela\uff08\u540e\u66f4\u540d\u4e3a Maison Margiela\uff09\u30022009\u5e74\uff0cMartin Margiela \u5728\u516c\u53f8\u6210\u7acb 20\u5468\u5e74\u4e4b\u9645\u5ba3\u5e03\u79bb\u5f00\u540c\u540d\u54c1\u724c\uff0c\u5e76\u4ece\u65f6\u5c1a\u754c\u9000\u4f11\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u4f26\u6566\u5927\u5b66\u7684 Angela McRobbie \u6559\u6388\u66fe\u79f0\u8d5e Martin Margiela \u201c\u521b\u9020\u4e86\u827a\u672f\u65f6\u5c1a\u6982\u5ff5\u201d\uff0c\u201c\u4ed6\u7684\u5f71\u54cd\u529b\u5728\u540e\u6765\u7684 Demna Gvasalia \u548c Hussein Chalayan \u7b49\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u8eab\u4e0a\u90fd\u6709\u6240\u4f53\u73b0\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u6709\u7740\u201c\u89e3\u6784\u602a\u624d\u201d \u4e4b\u79f0\u7684 Martin Margiela \u672c\u4eba\u5c31\u662f\u4e00\u4e2a\u8c1c\u3002\u57281989\u81f32009\u5e74\u95f4\uff0cMartin Margiela \u4e3e\u529e\u4e8641\u573a\u65f6\u88c5\u79c0\uff0c\u4f46\u4ed6\u4e0e\u5f53\u65f6\u90a3\u4e9b\u5229\u7528\u54c1\u724c\u548c\u5f62\u8c61\u725f\u5229\u7684\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u5f62\u6210\u4e86\u9c9c\u660e\u7684\u5bf9\u6bd4\u3002\u4ed6\u575a\u6301\u4e0d\u62cd\u7167\u3001\u4e0d\u63a5\u53d7\u91c7\u8bbf\uff0c\u4e5f\u4e0d\u5728\u65f6\u88c5\u79c0\u7ed3\u675f\u540e\u97a0\u8eac\u81f4\u656c\u3002\u4ed6\u66fe\u8868\u793a\uff0c\u201c\u6211\u4eec\u66f4\u5173\u6ce8\u670d\u88c5\u672c\u8eab\uff0c\u800c\u4e0d\u662f\u5a92\u4f53\u5bf9\u670d\u88c5\u7684\u62a5\u9053\u3002\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u66fe\u62cd\u6444\u7eaa\u5f55\u7247\u300aMartin Margiela: In His Own Words\u300b\u7684\u5bfc\u6f14 Reiner Holzemer \u900f\u9732\uff0cMartin Margiela \u8981\u6c42\u81ea\u5df1\u4e0d\u51fa\u73b0\u5728\u955c\u5934\u524d\u3002McRobbie \u8868\u793a\uff0c\u5982\u4eca Martin Margiela \u5982\u613f\u4ee5\u507f\u5730\u4ee5\u81ea\u5df1\u7684\u65b9\u5f0f\u7ee7\u7eed\u5de5\u4f5c\uff0c\u8fd9\u4e5f\u662f\u4ed6\u53cd\u5546\u4e1a\u7cbe\u795e\u548c\u4f5c\u4e3a\u827a\u672f\u5bb6\u7684\u613f\u666f\u7684\u4f53\u73b0\u3002<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u6bd4\u5229\u65f6\u4f20\u5947\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u3001\u5962\u4f88\u54c1\u724c Maison Margiela \u7684\u521b\u59cb\u4eba Martin Margiela \u662f\u65f6\u88c5\u754c [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-137031","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/137031","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=137031"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/137031\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":137036,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/137031\/revisions\/137036"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=137031"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=137031"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=137031"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}