\u65f6\u5c1a\u89c2\u5bdf\u4eba\u58eb\u5bf9\u53cd\u6620\u7ecf\u6d4e\u6674\u96e8\u8868\u7684\u88d9\u6446\u6307\u6570(hemline index)\u53ef\u80fd\u5f88\u719f\u6089\u3002\u5b83\u7531\u7ecf\u6d4e\u5b66\u5bb6\u4e54\u6cbb\u2022\u6cf0\u52d2(George W Taylor)\u4e8e1926\u5e74\u7387\u5148\u63d0\u51fa\uff0c\u8be5\u7406\u8bba\u8ba4\u4e3a\u7ecf\u6d4e\u666f\u6c14\u671f\u95f4\uff0c\u5973\u6027\u7684\u88d9\u6446\u4f1a\u53d8\u957f\uff1b\u800c\u7ecf\u6d4e\u80a1\u5e02\u4e0b\u884c\u65f6\uff0c\u88d9\u6446\u5c31\u4f1a\u53d8\u77ed\u3002<\/p>\n
2010\u5e74\uff0c\u8377\u5170\u9e7f\u7279\u4e39\u4f0a\u62c9\u65af\u59c6\u65af\u5927\u5b66\u8ba1\u91cf\u7ecf\u6d4e\u5b66\u9662(Econometric Institute at the ErasmusUniversity Rotterdam)\u53d1\u5e03\u62a5\u544a\u8868\u660e\uff1a\u81ea1921\u5e74\u4ee5\u6765\uff0c\u4ece\u6240\u6536\u96c6\u7684\u6570\u636e\u770b\uff0c\u7ecf\u6d4e\u666f\u6c14\u5ea6\u4e0e\u5973\u6027\u7684\u88d9\u6446\u957f\u5ea6\u4e4b\u95f4\u7684\u786e\u5b58\u5728\u6b63\u6bd4\u5173\u7cfb\uff0c\u4f46\u5177\u4f53\u65f6\u95f4\u4f1a\u6ede\u540e\u5927\u7ea6\u4e09\u5e74\u3002<\/p>\n
\u4f46\u662f\uff0c\u9664\u4e86\u5973\u88c5\u5916\uff0c\u7537\u88c5\u4e5f\u4f1a\u53d7\u7ecf\u6d4e\u4e0a\u4e0b\u6ce2\u52a8\u5f71\u54cd\u5417\uff1f\u4ece\u4f26\u6566\u6770\u660e\u8857(Jermyn Street)\u5230\u6700\u65b0\u53d1\u5e03\u7684\u7537\u88c5\u7cfb\u5217\uff0c\u8bbe\u8ba1\u5e08\u6b63\u9010\u6e10\u6448\u5f03\u7ecf\u5178\u7ffb\u9886\u800c\u8f6c\u5411\u66f4\u4e3a\u534e\u4e3d\u7684\u8863\u9886\u98ce\u683c—-\u886c\u8863\u751f\u4ea7\u5546\u628a\u6b64\u5f52\u56e0\u4e8e\u7ecf\u6d4e\u5f62\u52bf\u7684\u9010\u6b65\u597d\u8f6c\u3002<\/p>\n
\u201c\u968f\u7740\u7ecf\u6d4e\u5f00\u59cb\u590d\u82cf\uff0c\u6d88\u8d39\u8005\u6709\u66f4\u591a\u94b1\u8d2d\u4e70\u886c\u8863\u8fd9\u7c7b\u4e1c\u897f\uff0c\u201d\u6770\u660e\u8857\u886c\u8863\u884c\u6ed5\u535a\u963f\u745f(Turnbull & Asser)\u8bbe\u8ba1\u53ca\u4ea7\u54c1\u7814\u53d1\u4e3b\u7ba1\u8fea\u6069\u2022\u79d1\u5c14(Dean Gomilsek-Cole)\u8bf4\u3002\u201c\u6211\u4eec\u53d1\u73b0\u4ee5\u4e0b\u89c4\u5f8b\uff1a\u6d88\u8d39\u8005\u8d8a\u662f\u4e0d\u5dee\u94b1\uff0c\u5c31\u8d8a\u4f1a\u6311\u9009\u9002\u5408\u81ea\u5df1\u8138\u578b\u7684\u886c\u8863\u9886\u6b3e\u5f0f\u3002\u6211\u4eec\u7684\u786e\u770b\u5230\u7a7f\u6263\u5e26\u8863\u9886(tab collar)\u4ee5\u53ca\u66f4\u4e3a\u504f\u6fc0\u7684\u4e00\u5b57\u8863\u9886(cutaway collars)\u8005\u8d8a\u6765\u8d8a\u591a\uff0c\u524d\u8005\u7528\u2018\u6263\u5e26\u2019\u4e4b\u7c7b\u7684\u7ec6\u6761\u628a\u77ed\u5c16\u9886\u56fa\u5b9a\u8d77\u6765\uff0c\u540e\u8005\u7684\u9886\u5c16\u5b9e\u9645\u4e0a\u53bb\u6389\u4e86\uff0c\u6700\u7ec8\u5448\u73b0\u7684\u662f\u975e\u5e38\u5bbd\u5c55\u7684\u8863\u9886\u3002\u201d<\/p>\n
\u5c3d\u7ba1\u886c\u8863\u7684\u8863\u9886\u82b1\u6837\u5b58\u5728\u8bf8\u591a\u7ec6\u5fae\u5dee\u522b\uff0c\u4f46\u5927\u591a\u6570\u73b0\u6210\u886c\u8863\u4ecd\u91c7\u7528\u4f20\u7edf\u7ffb\u9886\uff0c\u53ea\u4e3a\u9002\u5408\u591a\u6570\u4eba\u7684\u8138\u578b\u3002\u800c\u5f53\u5c31\u4e1a\u5f62\u52bf\u4e0d\u65ad\u6539\u5584\u65f6\uff0c\u886c\u8863\u7a7f\u5f97\u5927\u540c\u5c0f\u5f02\u5c31\u65e0\u6cd5\u8131\u9896\u800c\u51fa\u4e86\u3002<\/p>\n
\u201c\u5728\u7ecf\u6d4e\u840e\u9761\u671f\u95f4\uff0c\u6bcf\u4e2a\u4eba\u90fd\u89c9\u5f97\u8981\u7a7f\u5f97\u66f4\u4e3a\u5408\u4f53\uff0c\u201d\u886c\u8863\u96f6\u552e\u5546TM Lewin\u603b\u88c1\u6770\u592b\u2022\u594e\u56e0(Geoff Quinn)\u8bf4\uff0c\u4ed6\u4eec\u672c\u6708\u521a\u63a8\u51fa\u4e86\u65b0\u7684\u5706\u9886\u886c\u8863\u3002\u201c\u4f46\u968f\u7740\u7ecf\u6d4e\u4e0d\u65ad\u597d\u8f6c\uff0c\u7a7f\u8863\u4fe1\u5fc3\u4e5f\u968f\u4e4b\u589e\u52a0\u3002\u6211\u4eec\u521a\u63a8\u51fa\u7684\u5706\u89d2\u9886\u886c\u8863\u53ef\u8ffd\u6eaf\u81f319\u4e16\u7eaa50\u5e74\u4ee3\uff0c\u5f53\u65f6\u4f0a\u987f\u516c\u5b66(Eton College) \u9996\u6b21\u5728\u81ea\u5df1\u7684\u6821\u670d\u4e0a\u4f7f\u7528\uff0c\u4f46\u300a\u6d77\u6ee8\u5e1d\u56fd\u300b(Boardwalk Empire)\u4ee5\u53ca\u300a\u5e7f\u544a\u72c2\u4eba\u300b(Mad Men)\u7b49\u5f71\u89c6\u5267\u628a\u5b83\u91cd\u65b0\u4ecb\u7ecd\u7ed9\u4e3b\u6d41\u793e\u4f1a\u3002\u5728\u5c0a\u91cd\u82f1\u56fd\u4f20\u7edf\u670d\u9970\u98ce\u683c\u7684\u60c5\u51b5\u4e0b\uff0c\u8fd9\u662f\u804c\u4e1a\u88c5\u4e0e\u65f6\u5c1a\u53d1\u5c55\u65b9\u5411\u76f8\u5951\u5408\u7684\u7edd\u4f73\u4f8b\u5b50\u3002\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u65f6\u5c1a\u89c2\u5bdf\u4eba\u58eb\u5bf9\u53cd\u6620\u7ecf\u6d4e\u6674\u96e8\u8868\u7684\u88d9\u6446\u6307\u6570(hemline index)\u53ef\u80fd\u5f88\u719f\u6089\u3002\u5b83\u7531\u7ecf\u6d4e\u5b66\u5bb6\u4e54\u6cbb\u2022\u6cf0\u52d2(Geo […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2642","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-htt"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2642","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2642"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2642\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2643,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2642\/revisions\/2643"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2642"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2642"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.htt.hk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2642"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}